Book reviews: The Agatha Christie indulgence continues, with another train related mystery, The ABC Murders. I began these as I was indulging a long held aspiration to travel on The Ghan from Adelaide to Alice Springs, and was thinking about the romance and joy associated with such travel. Of course, Christie does not dwell on these, but amongst the murders there is some romance and joy. On the Ghan there was only the latter.
Television comments: Some short reflections on the American coverage of the Presidential Election. Comments on A Country Podcast will resume after I have indulged myself on CNN and MNSBC commentary.
American Presidential Election
As Bob McMullan predicted, Joe Biden won the Presidential Election. The result in Pennsylvania made Biden the President Elect, and Arizona and Georgia gave McMullan his predicted 306 Electoral College votes for Biden. Although at this time President Trump has not conceded, his innumerable attempts to find another outcome through the courts have been unsuccessful – many being rejected immediately.
The Ghan, Alice Springs and Yalara
Waiting for the 306 electoral votes was not hard, after celebrating Biden’s win at the station before leaving on The Ghan for Alice Springs.
Before entering the station lounge measures against Covid 19 were taken, including temperature checks and Border Control forms. These had already been completed – not an onerous task! But how different from usual. It reminded me of the border controls in Europe years ago, when our passports were checked at each country’s border. Preparation for our European travels post Brexit and post Covid?
The lounge, rarely empty, but reminiscent of Michael Portillo’s trip on The Ghan televised in Great Australian Train Journeys. Plenty of champagne (and other drinks, of course), nibbles and discussion.
A good night’s sleep and an early rise to see the sunrise at Marla. Vegemite scolls and bacon and egg rolls are served with orange juice, tea and coffee.
The landscape seen from the train and the train moving though the landscape. The front of the train is around the curve.
Before alighting in Alice Springs a health pack was distributed. Another Border Pass was viewed by efficient and pleasant staff. One of the only two camels I saw was this statue at the station. Note, The Ghan is so long one does not alight at what normally passes for a station. Steps were used for us to get to the ground.
Alice Springs – impressive Indigenous Art Galleries, taxis everywhere, hot (but not oppressive), wide streets, makes me want to reread A Town Like Alice by Nevile Shute. A friend told me about the emus I would see on the way to Alice – not an emu to be seen, evidently I’ll have to go to Broken Hill to see them out of captivity. No camels either! To be fair , I could have gone to the Camel Farm, but I wanted to see them roaming free.
Fan Arcade where we enjoyed cold drinks, bemoaned the absence of Leah when there was a dog bowl for her, and appreciated the fans and sails above.
Peacock at our Alice Springs Hotel – gorgeous show off, posturing when anyone approached. No , we did not use the doors behind him to get to the pool!
After the Alice Springs sojourn we began our Uluru experience by coach, with stops at an eccentric road café, and a more conventional one. A camel and emu reside in a fenced, but large enclosure. But I’d rather not have seen them because they were free in the bush.
The driver was informative and chatty. What stood out amongst the chat was the commitment to Indigenous culture and their rights amongst the demands of tourists. Covid care was impressive. We were also warned to buy fly nets, which we did.
This early morning trip began a feature of the trip – arising at 4.00, and once at 3.30. So, lots of slumbering on the coaches that took us to the various sites.
Kata Tjuta Sunset
The first visit after our arrival and settling into the lovely Sails in the Desert was Kata Tjuta for the sunset. Kata Tjuta is also known as the Olgas, but consistently the guides use the Indigenous names, while linking them to the European names for clarity.
Uluru Sunrise and Sunset
Instead of walking up the rock, tourists now enjoy the walk around the base of the rock – a much more comfortable exercise as well as meeting the traditional owners’ requirements. One person confronted the guide about the new rules, and was deflected so politely but so firmly that he was left with no misunderstanding about the way in which the guides consider the rights of the indigenous owners.
Some sites around the base were sacred so photos were not allowed.
Rock art was able to be photographed, including that in a family cave, and a ‘kitchen’ cave.
Breakfasts and coffees were enjoyed at the Indigenous hospitality training café. This included a reminder of a Parisian meringue! On the walk to the café I saw my first live Sturt Pea.
Field of Light
Field of Light is an installation between Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Bruce Munro is the artist. Unfortunately photos may be taken, but not reproduced on line. Although it is clear that this blog could in no way be considered commercial, reading the information suggests that no photos can be replicated. This is such a pity as the installation was stunning and it would be lovely if it could be seen by more than the visitors to Uluru. I’m going to ask the artist if I am understanding the information as I’d love to add the photos to this blog.
Update on Bruce Munro – I received a lovely response to my request to use the photos. So here they are, and please read and adhere to the copyright notification below.
Copyright (c)2016 Bruce Munro. All rights reserved.
I was pleased to see this installation at sunrise, as we were able to walk through the art at the height of its beauty. The photo, bottom LHS, shows the installation as the light from the sun takes over. Other tours take place at night so that the lights gradually appear as the sun sets – more comfortable than arising early, and beautiful in its own way, I expect.
Robin's Room 