This week’s blog is mainly about travelling in Porto and Amsterdam. However, I have been indulging myself with some novels bought for fun rather than NetGalley reviews. Two have men as their main protagonists, which is an interesting change for me. One, The Trophy Wife by Valerie Keogh I have not finished.
It is a psychological thriller, following novels such as The Lawyer, The Librarian and The Housewife – all of which feature a woman as the main protagonist. Good reads for the beach, or as has been the case at the moment, a train or plane. The Clare Chambers that I finished recently joins other of her work that I found really worthwhile reads. Back Trouble combines an autobiography by Phillip written while he is incapacitated with a back injury, with his present life. This is the aftermath of the failure of the publishing business he and his friends established and his current relationships with his parents and brother and various others. Although not as poignant as Small Pleasures this is worth reading.
Small Pleasures was a wonderful, although distressing read. However, there are certainly differences of opinion – a friend who read it as part of her reading group list found it unfinished and unsatisfying; another was in tears she was so engrossed and at one with the characters. The Other Mothers by Katherine Faulkner was a disappointment after her first novel, Greenwich Park.
Lisbon to Porto and Food Tour
We travelled from Lisbon to Porto by train, and after a short taxi ride arrived at our hotel. It was close to a train station, San Bento, which was a good start to our first day’s activity which was a food tour, a short train ride away over the Douro River in Gaia. Having experienced a similar tour in Amsterdam I had high hopes of this one – some of which were fulfilled. It is an ideal tour for people fascinated by the Portwine industry and keen to taste some of its products. The food suffered by comparison, and this makes the tour a bit of a disappointment for those more interested in the Portuguese culinary experience. There was some discussion of historical features as we walked – or rather, climbed up slopes of cobbles.
Unfortunately, some of the photos from the food tour disappeared. Here, the vats in which the wine is stored are shown – alas, the old wine cellar complete with bottles encrusted in cobwebs is in the ether somewhere. The placemat shows the wines that we tasted at the end of the tour. Lastly, my dish that replaced the meat sausages that were the typical Portuguese meal provided to the meat eaters. They came unaccompanied, so I hastily piled my chips onto the sausage platters. They disappeared more quickly than the sausages. My white fish was a dry fish in a light batter. The last photo is a Franceschina, the traditional bread, meat and sauce meal that is advertised everywhere -and eaten at any time it seems. The sauces (mild and hot) are poured on at the table. My alternative was a fish dish, replete with a crumbed topping instead of the toasted bread that is part of the traditional Franceschina.
As we walked through the streets, we were told about the value given to the introduction of Trash Art, as well as the attempts to retrieve the tiled walls that were originally destroyed. Trash art adorned one wall – but the traditional patterned walls seem far more attractive.
Bus and boat tour
After the long walk around Giai, the next day a peaceful bus and boat tour seemed an excellent antidote.
The bus took us through Porto’s streets, to the beach, and then to the river where we met the cruise boat. Porto’s hills and cobbles are quite a challenge, so the bus was an attractive option. It also took us further than we’d have been able to travel using public transport in the time available. The Casa de Musica is the last photo.
The last photo shows the hill we had to climb to leave the Gaia area to catch the train back to Porto. The bridge in the photo is the one the train travels over the river. We started somewhere near the bottom and had to climb to the tower, on cobbles. A very healthy walk after the food on the tour! And before eating at 29 Marina, below.
Eating in Porto by the river
There are numerous places to eat by the River Douro, and musicians appear at many of them. The lively woman singer replaced a man singing from our era, which had been really lovely. However, her loud and impassioned singing certainly brought people to their feet dancing.
The food at 29 Marina was delicious, the service friendly, and the drinks rather marvellous.
Amsterdam
Once again, we are staying in the Museum Quarter, a part of Amsterdam we enjoyed immensely last time we were here. One of the best features of this district (apart from the museums of course) is Zaza’s, a restaurant we ate at last time. We were able to get a table as we were happy to begin our meal early and leave by 7.45. Having just arrived by KLM from Porto, train from the airport to Central Station and then a taxi we were more than happy to do this. Speaking of KLM – what an excellent service! The check in was seamless, the boarding no more onerous than on other occasions, and the food and beverages served free for a two-and-a-half-hour flight were excellent. This compared markedly with the British Airways flight from Heathrow to Lisbon. Also, there was an interesting environmental effort displayed before we boarded.
Zaza’s
Zaza’s has an inventive menu, the chef magics up the most delicious concoctions, the service is friendly and efficient, and the ambience is delightful. Warm bread with a garlicky and light humous was served, then a small, delicious treat (eaten before I took a photo, and although special I recall only the goat’s cheese and poppy seed cracker) was followed by an appetiser – we chose the goats caramelised onion cheese tart topped with fig and rosemary – and a between course delight. Mine was a carrot and ginger soup, and my friend’s a champagne and lemon sorbet. These were served with panache – the champagne bubbling and fizzing and the soup being poured into a delicious accompaniment.
The main dishes were also successful – the problem being that the temptation to eat everything on the plate is insurmountable. Once again, we left Zaza’s without trying the dessert menu. The veal was served with parsnip puree, tarte tartine, sauces and greens. The prawns were served with a delicious risotto, a delicious sauce and peas.
Senor Moustache
Our next evening meal was very different, but also really great. Again, it was a return to an old haunt from our previous stay in Amsterdam. The meals we chose were a chicken taco salad and a beef taco salad. The taco provided a very light crisp bowl for a luscious salad. This comprised lettuce, carrot, beans, rice, radishes, onion, sauces and coriander.
Another small environment care effort
The NH Hotel in Amsterdam also has the ‘give up having your room cleaned and get a free drink ‘ as part of their contribution to doing something about the environment. I have some concerns as I am not sure how these measures impact on the staff. However, I am also taking advantage of the offer – tonight we had our free glasses of Sauvignon Blanc and our shared pizza before leaving for London on the Eurostar.
Van Gogh Museum
We made sure not to miss out on this experience by booking tickets in advance after having found that the museum was unable to cater for people arriving on the day. Although our time was set for 10.45, we were allowed in upon arrival and made the most of our time there. This was one of the most well curated exhibitions I have seen, with excellent signage and explanations in English as well as Dutch, all at easy eye level and clear. There will be more of this next week. But a good start is some of the many and varied self-portraits Van Gogh painted throughout his lifetime.
Robin's Room 